The smoke rising from the hot coals leaves a light scent of coconut lingering in the air.
When I reach down to pick up the half-shell and flip it over, I can see the insides are charred black and begin to scrape out the coconut ash. Ginger, lemongrass and other spices are mixed with the ash.
I use this paste to coat the whole chicken before it returns to the hot coals, which are then coaxed into a stronger flame. A coconut milk stew is also simmering over the open coals.
To begin the meal, my family gathers around the chicken and a mound of cooked rice.
We experience the meal through touch as much as taste—using our kamay, we tear off chunks of chicken and scoop up the rice.
We then dip it into the stew before raising our hands to our mouths to deliver a delicious, flavorful bite.
P Y A N G G A N G
This dish originates from the Tausug people of Mindanao. Roasted Cornish Hen with a side of Pyanggang Black Curry Sauce. The black color comes from charred coconut husks also known as activated charcoal. The sauce is made with lemongrass, shallot, garlic, ginger, fish sauce, coconut sugar, and coconut milk. Comes with a side of atchara or pickled green papaya and baby lime. Also comes with rice. This dish is meant to be eaten kamayan-style.