Desserts: Ensaymada at Flan de Leche

CHEF'S TAKE

Ensaymada

Making ensaymada has been a real learning experience for me. Brioche dough is tricky because of its high fat content—the butter makes it slippery, and when it bakes, it almost fries in the oven. Getting the dough just right has been the biggest challenge.

I’ve always been a little messy and chaotic in the kitchen, so figuring out this process has been eye-opening. Baking forces you to slow down—it’s a science. Every step matters, and you really need patience. That’s been at the heart of making this dish for me.

Back in culinary school, we worked with brioche during a chapter that also covered focaccia, biscuits, and ciabatta. Brioche stood out because it was more complex. We even used the same dough for monkey bread and cinnamon rolls. That rolling technique you see in cinnamon rolls? You can find it in ensaymada too. It’s not rolled the exact same way, but it still builds layers. You can think of ensaymada almost like a cinnamon roll—but topped with grated Edam cheese.

Chef Anjelique “Anjie” (Co-Chef, Istorya)

Flan De Leche

Flan de Leche is a common recipe within the Filipino community. Mama Vi, Walbert’s mom, grew up with leche flan being the centerpiece of desserts, at local fiestas in Lala, Lanao Del Norte, Mindanao. She later learned this recipe in her Home Economics class at St. Michael’s College in Iligan City. Leche flan became the center of hangouts with her friends.

- Monica (Co-Owner, Istorya)

ON THE MAP: PAMPANGA’S CULINARY HERITAGE

In “Panaderia: Philippine Bread, Biscuit and Bakery Traditions”, authors Amy Uy and Jenny Orillos take us along on their travels across the Philippines to document the stories and recipes behind some of the country’s most well-known bakeries. On the podcast they shared how the book started, expanded, and led to other explorations. Around 35 minutes in, we talk about the ensaymadas of Pampanga, and the maestro panaderos who do what they can to keep local traditions alive.

Traveling through the region my grandmother was raised in, with its heady mix of culinary, cultural and family history, and meeting Atching Lillian was an unforgettable part of my year away!

- Nastasha